Vinisud 2012. One of the most comprehensive and well organized wine expos.

We’ve just received a few photos from JP, who attended Vinisud 2012 this past week with Patrick (our French Portfolio Director) and our visionary leader, TEB.  Hosted in Montpellier, France, Vinisud is a Mediterranean wines trade fair that features French producers from Lanquedoc, Roussillon, Provence, the Rhone Valley, Corsica and South-West, alongside wineries from Spain, Italy, Portugal, Tunisia, Turkey, Morocco and Algeria.  As noted in the images below, Vinisud is also well attended by a number of our producers…

Domaine Espiers–Philip Cartoux & TEB

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Patrick and Cedric from Domaine La Suffrene.   We enjoyed his whites and reds and of course are excited about in-bounding Cedric’s rosé soon.

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Cecile Dusserre of Domaine de Montvac at Vinisud

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Marc Pichon of Anne Pichon with Patrick & JP in Montpelier, France

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Dinner with (left to right) the winemakers at Vins de Vienne: Pascal, Yves Cuilleron, TEB and Pierre Gaillard

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As the sixth generation vintner at Domaine Roger Belland, Julie Belland has full responsibility at her father’s winery and vineyard; 2009 was her first solo vintage.  ”Julie runs the Domaine and makes the wines…she’s a young dynamic woman in a male-dominated scene,” says Patrick Burke, our French Portfolio Director.

With 23 hectares to cultivate, Domaine Belland has avoided herbicides by using ploughing to control weed growth for the past 20 years.  This practice, used in conjunction with grass sown between the rows of vines, has enabled the Bellands to fight erosion and control yields, to produce complex, concentrated wines.

Situated in the commune of Santenay, located at the southern tip of Côte de Beaune, Domaine Belland has been in the family since 1839.  With Premier and Grand Cru holdings in Santenay, Les Maranges, Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet, Mersault, Volnay and Pommard, Domaine Belland works with some of the world’s best terroir.  Of the famed Grand Cru parcel Criots Batard-Montrachet, which is divided amongst seven producers, Roger possesses the largest holding–0.60ha–of the 1.57ha vineyard.  One of the few Domaines to own an entire climat in Burgundy, Belland controls the 3ha monopole Clos Pitois (first planted in 1421), a well-exposed corner of Chassagne’s Premier Cru Morgeot.

Click here for entire map on Burgundy Report

Despite their 23ha, the Bellands hand-harvest all of their grapes.  Since Julie has taken over, the Domaine has increased their practice of leaf-pulling in the vineyard, for additional aeration, which better maintains the health of the grapes.  She has also decreased the use of new oak, from 50% to 30%, except for the Criots Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, which sees closer to 60% new wood.  ”I’ve noticed the wines are getting prettier,” says Patrick, “easier to drink younger, which seems to be the trend in Burgundy.”  Her father, on the other hand, has noted the increase in the wines’ minerality since Julie has taken to the helm, a note that we’re happy to sing.

My travels on the Metro North, via the New Haven line, brought me to Martel Bistro & Bar, in Fairfield, Connecticut.  Owned and run by Francophile Marty Levine, the restaurant is a French-American Bistro that caters to a local audience.  ”In Paris, normal everyday eating is informal and lively,” says Marty, as he sips coffee at the bar on a cloudy winter day.  ”Yet, Americans think of French dining as formal and stuffy.  I wanted to bring that style to this restaurant.  I wanted to be aware of where we are–in America, in the suburbs–to know my customers…they’re not going to eat rabbit tripe.  [Martel is] an interpretation, not a copy, which would have been disastrous.”

It was a canoe trip down the Loire years ago, that sold Marty on France.  Not knowing much about food and wine at the time, he traveled along the river from castle to castle, in awe of the open-air weekly markets, the abundance of fresh foods, the artisanal quality.  ”I’m still fascinated with it,” he says.  ”Here, we’ve lost it.  You couldn’t find a butcher if you wanted…[In France] everyone knows their way around the kitchen.  The family meal is alive and well.”

Upon returning, he found inspiration in Balthazar in NYC and Pastis.  Years later, he bought a second home in Martel, which is in the Dordogne region, not far from Cahors.

Newly constructed with an antiquated look, Martel has been operating in this location for three years, where it emphasizes French wines on its list.  ”If we sell bottles, they’re predominately French,” says Marty.  ”I sell a lot of Bordeaux and Rhone, my favorite regions.  Terminus Cotes du Rhone does well here.”  As do wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. “Cinquante Cinq Sauvignon Blanc also sells well. Varietals that have been popularized in America, I have the French versions,” adds Marty and laughs.

“Most people order wine before deciding what they like.  People look for what’s palatable, they look for what’s familiar,” says Marty, “but I also include Viognier, Sancerre, Chateauneuf du Pape and Beaujolais by the glass and carafe.”

As he gets up to greet and guide a regular customer to her table, Marty adds, “I view wine as a beverage, as a compliment to a way of life.”

The other week, Georgia and I dropped by to see Dorian, the Albanian proprietor at Medi Wine Bar, an intimate Mediterranean spot on 9th Avenue, between 53rd and 54th.  Cozy and rustic upstairs and down, with stone washed walls, countryside tables, and hanging glass lamps, Medi offers a regional menu with small plates and entrees, and over 50 wines by the glass.  Showcasing the expected alongside the up and coming (and ancient!), Medi offers wines from Italy, Spain and France, with representation from Turkey, Croatia, Montenegro, Israel and Lebanon. Having passed by Medi a number of times, I was glad to have finally entered; it’s a warm reprieve from the soulless establishments that line the bulk of 9th Avenue.

Ordering a couple of glasses to accompany our Spanish Mackerel Ceviche and Endive, Arugula salad, we paired our Anne Pichon Trotinette Ventoux Blanc 2009, an organically grown wine that’s a blend of Grenache Blanc and old vine Clairette.  Named after TEW’s joint climb up Mt. Ventoux with Marc Pichon in 2009, the Ventoux Blanc has floral notes of peach with a white pepper finish.

Tasting the Mediterranean from another perspective, we ordered a glass of Castel de Fornos Albarino 2010 from DO Rias Baixas, a region that we’re most familiar with, due to much proselytizing from André Tamers of De Maison Selections.  With notes of wet slate and lime, and acidity that soars, the Albarino offered a parched view of the Mediterranean, that sipped in clear contrast to the lush stone fruit of the Anne Pichon Trotinette Ventoux Blanc.

The plates were delicious; and there’s certainly more on the menu to explore.  There’s three of our wines wines from Catalonia, including Joan d’Anguerra Finca L’Argata, Cesca Vincent ‘Lo Piot’ Priorat, and Edetaria Edetano Tinto Terra Alta.  Perhaps next time we’ll visit Kosovo or Slovenia, to see what the glass has in store.

[Where: Medi Wine Bar, 811 9th Ave., New York, NY 10019]

Georgia’s Staff Pick–An Alternative Pink for Valentine’s Day

Rose Champagne? Provence Rose? It’s been done before…but here’s something a little more interesting for today’s holiday:

Pascal Pibaleau “La Perlette” Sparkling Grolleau NV

Pascal farms organically, biodynamically and has the largest holdings of Grolleau – a nearly extinct, traditional Loire red grape. This is a method ancestral, frizzante style with native yeasts and no sulfites. Bone dry with hints of raspberry, strawberry and a nutty almond finish.

I love the whimsical, romantic label (both a vine and a woman blowing bubbles) … and everyone likes an attractive price!

The other week, Angelo Ferrio of Cascina Ca’ Rossa was in town from Roero, Piemonte for the Slow Wine Guide Publication Party, a tasting event that showcased 60+ of the 1,800 wineries that are included in the current guide.  Following on the heels of the snail, the Slow Wine movement is an extension of Slow Food, with origins that lie with Gambero Rosso, with whom Slow Wine published Italian Wines for 20+ years, before parting ways in 2010.  ”When it first started, many years ago,” says Angelo, “it generated possibilities for people to learn about small wineries…it put small producers on the forefront, the guide, the tasting…but over time things change, and as a consequence the guide has changed.”

And while this division has “splintered” the wine organizations in Italy (within a short period, there are three Italian tastings in New York: Slow Wine, Gambero Rosso Tre Becchieri and Vinitaly, and none are free for the producers), the organizations can provide life-altering promotion for small/family run wineries.

In the 1970′s, says Angelo, Piemonte was very poor, and now it’s one of the wealthiest areas in the country. The only way for a farmer to survive back then, was to diversify his crops; grapes were sold to the local co-op and were only a part of the equation.  When Angelo’s father, Alfonso, made wine for local consumption, it was not a priority.  He did things when he got around to it, says Angelo; he racked wine when it rained, and when Angelo took over production and suggested that they bottle their wines, Alfonso was against it.  His parents were traditional, and bottling wine was considered too expensive.

Stefano and Angelo in the vineyards

Back then, vineyard management was based on quantity and not quality.  Angelo’s father would have considered it sacrilegious to cut grapes and leave them on the ground to rot.  Nowadays, Angelo’s vineyards yield 50-60% fewer grapes than his father’s; Alfonso then yielded 10-15 tons/ha of Nebbiolo, while Angelo currently yields 4 tons/ha of their best quality grapes.

In 1993, Angelo started bottling white wines, and in 1996, he began bottling reds (using natural yeasts).  In the early 1990′s, Angelo says it was his then best friend, Matteo Correggia, who saw the potential to put Roero on the map.  He encouraged the local producers to start making wine for themselves, and then, adds Angelo, a lot of his customers (importers and distributors) came his way, because of his presence in the Italian Wines guide.  Nowadays, there are 60-70 producers in the area, 20-30 of which make quality wines.

With most of his 13ha of vineyards on steep hillsides, it’s been easy to practice organic farming in the vineyard, and so Angelo has been doing so all along.  Next year, he’ll earn certification.  Here, you’ll find  more sand in the soil than in the rest of Langhe, which yields more elegant wines.  And while he hasn’t much altered his winemaking process since 1993-96, in 1999, Angelo started working with Beppe Ca’Viola, a local oenologist, who taught him how to taste and understand what to look for during the process, so that Angelo could better achieve the clean wines that he desires.

With his 20-year old son, Stefano, who is currently studying oenology, Angelo works the vineyards.  And just as he inherited the vineyards from his parents, Angelo is happy to have the winery to pass along to his son.

Getting into the spirit of LOVE, we’ve got lots going on around town.  Looking for a bottle or two to share with your Valentine? Drop by and let us taste you through these titillating  selections…

MANHATTAN:

Astor Wines–399 Lafayette St. (at E. 4th St.)

Tonight! Feb. 9th, 6:00-8:00 PM

David’s bringing a taste of sunny California to the East Village:

Three Saints Chardonnay, Santa Maria

Atticus John Chardonnay, Napa Valley

Norton Ridge Chardonnay, Napa Valley

Elizabeth Spencer Sauvignon Blanc

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Martin Brothers Wine–2781 Broadway (btwn. 106th & 107th)

Tonight! Feb. 9th, 5:00-8:00 PM

Georgia’s Valentine’s Day picks:

Casa Julia Merlot

Bricco del Sole Moscato

Pibaleau Sparkling Grolleau

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Sutton Wine Shop–403 E. 57th St. (off of 1st Ave.)

Friday, Feb. 10th, 5:00-8:00 PM

Drop by for a hang with Chris on the UES:

Erste & Neue Pinot Grigio DOC 2010

Norton Ridge Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2010

Maysara Estate Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard McMinnville 2009

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Columbus Ave. Wines–730 Columbus Ave. (btwn. 95th & 96th)

Friday, Feb. 10th, 5:00-8:00 PM

Yours truly is pouring for Georgia on the UWS:

Erste & Neue Muller Thurgau

Familia Mayol Malbec

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BROOKLYN:

Scotto’s Wine Cellar–318 Court St. (btwn. Sackett & Degraw)

Friday, Feb. 10th, 5:30-8:30 PM

Georgia’s got France & Italy at heart:

Pascal Pibaleau L’heritage d’Aziaum Touraine Rouge

La Rivolta Falanghina

Vine Wine– 616 Lorimer St.,

Saturday, Feb. 11th, 3:00-6:00 PM

Robert’s hosting a Valentine’s themed tasting:

Cava Avinyo Brut Penedes NV

Domaine des Espiers Gigondas 2009

Vinedo de los Vientos “Alcyone” Tannat Dessert Wine

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UPSTATE NEW YORK:

Depot Wines–100 Independent Way, Brewster, NY

Friday, Feb. 10th, 4:00-7:00 PM

Valerie has a line-up that spans the world:

Cinquante Cinq Viognier

Domaine Jean-Paul Paquet Saint Veran “La Grande Bruyere” 2010

Crosby Merlot California 2010

Domaine Joseph Cattin Gewurztraminer 2010

Titus Zinfandel

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NEW JERSEY:

Cool Vines–127 Central Ave., Westfield, NJ

Saturday, Feb. 11th, 2:00-5:00 PM

Mark’s got an instore “Romance” theme lined up:

Cattin’s Cremant d’Alsace Blanc

Vinedo de los Vientos “Alcyone” Tannat Dessert Wine

Red and White wines TBD

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She picked a round stone from the river

And carved his name

In a heart

On a rock.

A strand of strawberry slipped from her ear

The sun-kissed dry on her cheek

Yesterday’s perfume on pale freckled skin

And forest stains on the knees of his jeans.

–Clos Cibonne Rosé 2009

In lieu of traditional tasting notes, this rosé asked for a poem.  Love in a bottle.  A salmon colored heart.  A wine for your Valentine.  Clos Cibonne Tibouren.

From 30+ year old vines of 90% Tibouren and 10% Granache, this rosé is aged on lees under fleurette for a year, in 100-year-old foudres.

In the Roux family since 1797, the property of Clos Cibonne saw its winery modernized in 1930 by André Roux, who hoped to shine a light on his estate’s rosés.

A native varietal in Provence, Tibouren replaced the estate’s Mourvedre, at the hands of André Roux. Producing pale rosé wines with notes of earth, according to Jancis Robinson, “Tibouren is cultivated by a number of the more quality- and history-conscious producers of Provence…”

Seeking to revitalize the estate, Bridget Roux (André’s granddaughter) took it over in the 1990′s, bringing Clos Cibonne back to its standing as one of the 18 Cru Classés in Côtes de Provence.

And though this grape is sensitive to coulure, Clos Cibonne is located just 800 meters from the coast, and surrounded by hillsides, allowing for air circulation that yields healthy, mature grapes.

Chef John Holzwarth

From oysters to wine, Chef John Holzwarth seeks local, sustainably produced products for his Boathouse at Saugatuck, in Westport, Connecticut. Situated inside the Saugatuck Rowing Club, but open to the public, the menu here is comprised of local ingredients to which Holzwarth applies ”Mediterranean and Italian methods, through a New England looking glass.”

The oysters on the menu are seeded in front of The Boathouse, in the Saugatuck River, and cultivated in the Long Island Sound; their supplier, Jeff Northrup, brings them to the restaurant year round.  The same holds true with all of the proteins on the menu, the pasteurized beef, lamb and chicken are sustainably sourced all year long.  ”There’s seasonability with the products,” says John.  ”Beef in the winter has different attributes than spring or summer beef, and we can say the same thing about oysters and cheese.”  Taking these attributes into consideration when planning his menu, John also varies his cooking methods, based on the season.  ”In winter, I look for cooking methods that were prominent in the Old World,” he says, “like smoking…smoked scallops and smoked mackerel accompanied by heirloom grains.”

A Winter View from The Boathouse Window

With a menu that’s constantly evolving, John gives just as much attention to his vegetable dishes as he does to his proteins.  ”Procuring and cooking is just as important with vegetables, pastas [all of which are homemade using heirloom flours] and proteins,” says Holzwarth.  It’s a “sustainable way to eat, for the planet and for the individual.” And the same can be said about the wines on his list.

“We’ve had a lot of fun creating this venue, as well as a small wine list that accompanies the menu,” adds John.  ”When we first opened, we had two dozen wines, now we have under one hundred.  It’s still small and eclectic, but we’ve put a lot of thought into what goes on the list and how it pairs with the food and sustainable methods.”

“In the summer,” says John, “we work with a lot of T. Edward Wines: Serge Laloue Sancerre, Ameztoi Txkolina, white and rosé with oysters and roasted duck.”  There’s also Casa Julia Sauvignon Blanc and Cava Avinyo on the list.  Seeking food-friendly wines with high acidity and small production, The Boathouse offers plenty in the summer from De Maison Selections, wines that are the perfect accompaniment to watching a sunset from the restaurant’s deck. In the winter with its richer cuisine, “people are driven to Burgundy and Bordeaux,” adds Holzwarth, including wines from sustainable producers such as Domaine Fichet and Sybille Kuntz.

“Everything on the menu is created to be consumed with wine,” says Chef Holzwarth in closing; a man who’s clearly after our palates and our locavore loving hearts.

[Where: The Boathouse, 521 Riverside Ave., Westport, CT 06880]

Great news from Brian Pilliod and Juerie Park, our Domestic Portfolio Managers: Teutonic Wine Company has joined our book!

What follows are a few words from Brian:

I met Barnaby and Olga when I was out in Oregon in December.  It’s really a great honor to introduce their wines to you and to begin our relationship with them.  

When we found out that the Tuttle’s had planted a vineyard 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean, which is the only coast range vineyard in Oregon, and that they naturally vinify their wines (anywhere from 9 – 12% alchl), we were hooked. When we tasted these wines, they made us question the potential and the limits of American Wines; immediately, we felt that this was an opportunity we should share.

Winemaker Barnaby Tuttle is a native Portlander, a rarity these days. He was just 12 years old when he began to wash dishes at Papa Haydn Restaurant in Southeast Portland. After years at this benchmark institution and a few other jobs, Barnaby returned in 2003 to work as general manager and wine steward. During his tenure there, he developed an insatiable passion for wine, and after meeting German wine importer Ewald Moseler, he became obsessed with esoteric cool-climate wines.

Drawing parallels to his native land, Barnaby and his wife Olga set out to produce lean/low alcohol wines that maintain their sense of place and varietal structure. The Tuttles found their hallowed ground in some of the most coveted vineyards in Oregon: including Medici, Maresh, David Hill, and John Albin’s Laurel Vineyard (with an elevation of 1200ft the highest vineyard site in the Willamette Valley). Their house style is represented by wines that are low in alcohol (typically 9% to 12% alcohol by volume), and high in acidity.

In early spring 2005, Barnaby and his wife, Olga, were presented with the opportunity to plant a small vineyard on a friend’s property in Alsea, Oregon. Alsea is west of Oregon’s coast range and only 22 miles from the Pacific Ocean. They took a gamble, planting Oregon’s first coastal vineyard. The first years were quite challenging, as they learned some valuable lessons, but they remained true to their goal—to grow fruit in a cool climate. Their first crop in 2008 produced two barrels of Pinot Noir which became available in Oregon in November 2009.

Barnaby worked as the assistant winemaker at Laurel Ridge Winery in Carlton, Oregon for two years before moving off on his own to form Teutonic Wine Company with Olga [where he designs these stunningly gorgeous labels for their wines].